My Viva Vivas seastead design


(Wilfried Ellmer) #41

| land water transitions | ocean colonization technology | project strategy | seasteading caribbean |

@Elwar…looks like a “concept error” to me… the most tedious part for a big build is a land-water transition. This is why big projects, that do not fit into the default of boatramps and shipyards (which are “special installations built specificly for enabling land water transitions of a very specific kind of objects”) are built in floating mode always…

the only part that happens on land is a truck arriving on the shoreside and driving right on a deckbarge that will take the “truck load” out to the building site…


• Workhypothesis • Having land water transitions of anything that does not fit into a container is a concept error.
The land water transition of a container is less than a minute - hook it on a existing crane and load it on the deckbarge. Planning for any different kind of land water transition than the "standardized one" is calling big hairy problems upon your project on many levels.

In the first stages a seastead can look like a floating marina with a couple of floating walkways and piers …


It is predicted that construction activities in the 21st century will be dominated by concrete sea structures • P.K Mehta


Floating building sites are a base requirement for ocean colonization key technologies.


@Elwar | your triangular “vivas design” could start with a base plate like this…cement composite structure test piece our group did in cartagena some eight years ago…


Another option - “floating rock” advanced cement composite - you can spray it directly on the watersurface to create a ever growing floating island…starting with a shoebox size … | Termite-Tech™ | advanced cement composite floating structures |

Picture series

Big things have small beginnings


(noboxes) #42

@ellmer , so you are saying that no part of those cranes, boats, form molds, buildings, or tanks as shown in the picture, were ever built on land and transported to the construction site? They did not buy those cranes from a crane company, they built them on the site and welded them up and painted them on the construction site?


#43

“Some”? :wink: The cheapest way is to build most of it in a boat yard, splash and float on location. No matter what the “pundits” say,…


(Chad Elwartowski) #44

Certainly, the seastead can be used to build more seasteads.

I mean that I don’t see any way to put them into the water without being assembled first. You can’t put one on the back of a truck and take it to the marina and drop it in fully assembled. They’re just too big. There definitely needs to be a pre-process to coat the whole thing in polyurea at once as opposed to in segments due to how polyurea works.

Building and assembling on the seastead would be decided down the road based on a cost analysis of locations.


(Chad Elwartowski) #45

Again, the point of the design is small and gradual building keeping costs as low as possible. $10k modules. Building a build site on the water that costs millions of dollars sort of defeats the purpose of modularity.


#46

How big can be build for $10k?


(Chad Elwartowski) #47

The rough estimate I had back in 2014 was around $6k in material for the most basic module with 5x5 meter walls (3 walls and a bottom piece). Of course the price would be different for the updated version though I discovered that the steel did not to be as thick as I had estimated earlier which brings the price down but I added some framing which could bring it back up…so $10k is a very rough estimate of materials. Construction costs would certainly add to it. But my cost estimate for material was more of a cost sink for the seastead. If the people building the seastead lived on the seastead then the cost of their labor goes back into the local economy.


#48

$10k for 5x5x5 m bare hull or turn key?


(noboxes) #49

Well, yes and no. You cannot tow a high capacity ready-to-float roro down the highway, but you can tow the pieces to where you can assemble before launch. Then it’s less interference from locals to just drive your building materials onto the roro and motor out to a second flatdeck barge configured as a floating drydock. Build on the drydock, then lower the drydock, and float off the completed new modules. The seastead will want a floating drydock anyhow, for maintenance of the small stuff. It’s why i suggested using any public ramp as material access to land. Still need a SSB tho, for snail mail etc…

I don’t know where on the pie-shapes the 5x5x5m refers to, but i just priced 1/4in/6mm common steel plate for a 16x16 area in the $2,600 ballpark. If you multiply that by 3.5 to cover three 5x5m exteriors and a bottom, that’s $9,100. Gotchas, bracing, welding rods, paying me, etc, not included.


(Chad Elwartowski) #51

Bare hull.

But I would not be surprised if, with labor and overhead it would end up closer to 3x as much.


(noboxes) #52

Elwar, did you do any stability tests on these pie shapes?


(Chad Elwartowski) #53

I created a computer image and put it on a web forum.

My original plan when I retired was to test the feasibility of this design in Thailand when I retired (renting a place on the water) but after seeing that Blue Frontiers actually has a viable way forward for getting a seastead in the water I abandoned this design and am putting my efforts toward that.

Like I said, I just wanted to get the video into this thread since I had done a lot more work on it and I wanted it all in one place before the forum is archived.


#54

Hibernia Gravity Base Structure was built on land, in sections. First the base, then the top. Then they were floated-out and assembled onsite. Not built at sea, while afloat.

The Gravity Base was towed out on May 23, 1997. installed on June 5th, 1997.


#55

It can be done for less then $10k on a “hybrid ferro-epoxy-fiberglass” hull material equal in strength to steel.

OR, for really cheap on a double layer of Big Blocks @ $18/ft. That would be only $3600.00 for a float you can build on.

Free shipping :blush:


(Chad Elwartowski) #57

I have not heard of hybrid ferro-epoxy-fiberglass, is the ferro part a concrete type thing?

I am looking at steel due to the fact that these modules would likely be banging against themselves occasionally. And polyurea sticks best to steel.

Polyurea for the salt water resistance and toughness as far as taking a beating. Plus I have heard from people who have used it on boats that sea barnacles and such do not stick to it.


#58

Well, I couldn’t think of a better description… It’s a construction method I’ve been looking into in order to keep building price low. Quite promising.

Yes, it’s a structural-protective ferrocement “outside layer”.


(noboxes) #59

“ferro” is iron. Usually steel tho. The atomic symbol of iron is Fe. Think “normal rebar” or “expanded metal lath” (usually used in stucco). This is Octavian’s method:

It can be quite sturdy as a building exterior, but won’t take getting bashed into. It beats paint, and nothing can eat it. Big problem years ago, people put it righton wood, and the wood rotted because moisture was condensing on the back side of the stucco. There’s gotchas everywhere!


(Chad Elwartowski) #60

Nice. Better method for ferrocement than I was able to do.

Looks promising.


(Ali) #61

Hi @Elwar

I like your concept, thank you for drawings and detailed info. How about using sacrificial anodes + painted normal (not stainless) steel for your elements. I suppose it should be cheaper than using stainless steel + polyurea?

Sacrificial Anodes on Ships to avoid corosion


(Joshua Rowley) #62

How would you go about connecting the units? A quick and easy way to attach and detach these units would be beneficial to it’s design. My thoughts would be to have winches built within the units, and you can simply reel it in to merge the two. Then once the units are in position, they can lock into place.