Found one, but it’s miniscule: http://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/flshipwrecks/buildings/hal1.jpg
Looks good, just a few questions:
Is there a particular reason you’ve gone for steel over reinforced concrete?
How are the units to be tethered together?
How do you plan for anchoring to work, and what depth of water are they intended to operate in?
Do you mind if I repost this to voat.co/v/seasteading ?
Well, in particular, he said stainless steel, and if he picks the right alloy, it would last as long as any cement, be lighter, and easier to modify (welding, cutting, to append to, or upgrade portions of) after it’s built.
Isn’t it much more expensive and harder to build though?
Well, it’s his design, and he seems to know what he’s doing. It might beat the cost of forming all that rebar and then pouring the cement and then moving all that weight into the water. People do build things with stainless, it is possible, and it would be very difficult to accidently destroy it. Since he might be joining up sections in the ocean, the stainless will easily withstand the trauma of getting banged around a bit. I am not down on the stuff, but if you don’t mind the gotchas, they will bite you. I don’t have a plasma torch to cut it, drill bits last longer with plain steel, i can use any wire brush i like with common steel, etc etc… I’ve often wondered if a common steel boat overwrapped with 22 gauge stainless might be a fine idea, 22 gauge is thicker than paint, and lasts longer too.
A few different reasons, like I mentioned concrete that is banging against concrete over time will lose structural integrity more than steel. I worked initially on ferrocement spheres and that was a big concern. When I started doing research on something that could survive in salt water I discovered polyurea and researching that I found out that it works best with steel.
I also focused on something that could be built inland and trucked to the water. This gives more options for getting started. Or even something that I could build in the back yard on my own.
For the small units the corners would each have a tie down and I was also thinking the interiors would have magnets to make it so that each unit is solidly connected to each other but enough to give way if a large wave comes through.
This design was for the shallow waters talked about for the Seasteading Institute first phase, as for anchoring it, it would be able to use regular anchors in shallow waters.
Not at all.
Reasonable answers. I am still for ferrocement. Though a few more answers like this, and I am going to change my mind.
Ferrocement is a great material, it actually gets stronger over time under pressure which is great. It just depends on the design and environment it will be in.
I agree, I didn’t mention anything about the actual structure but it would be like a frame with the steel attached.
Interesting answers, particularly about the magnets, that’s a new suggestion to me.
Magnets are great, but they loose their power over 350 years.
They have to be replaced. -)
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I threw together a video of a sketchup model of the Viva Vivas module.
Definitely not a high quality video, just wanted to get my updates into the thread before the site is archived so it’s all in one place.
Ya, building without the restraint of being able to transport it on the back of a truck could create many more options.
I just like the triangle shape for a wider range of configurations of the topology of the seastead.
It also has the smallest amount of connections to other platforms (outside of some round shape that only allows a single line).
Hence, the requested Seastead Support Base. Even if you build this thing out on the water, you still need a land site for materials staging and transmodal (land to water) delivery. A roro that could carry a loaded 40ft container or two would seriously help, if you choose to build on the water instead of on the SSB.
You already had a good idea how to layout your diamond shape the way you wanted. His was/is pretty much a blank slate.
Definitely. I can’t think of any way around some assembly required on land before going into the water.
One major part is the polyurea coating. It would be best to apply it all at once, creates a better seal that way.