So a thought came to mind of using small cheap pools as forms, filling them with hydrophobic foams and using that as a initial building platform, and because the plastic pools already float the foam can cure as they are on the water. Connecting pieces can be placed on the bottom of the pool and utilized when the foam is tipped over and the plastic pool formwork reused for the next pour. PVC connecters would be ideal in creating a fast and efficient pontoon structure and shapes can be added in the bottom for additional casting with other substances like concrete. Fences can be added to the sides for the structure and for wave protection; cavities between fence posts and fences can be filled with additional foam for increased floatation.
Are oars included with those “seasteads”, or they are sold separately??
How much are you paying for foam? Where? What is your cost for 3000 sq ft of one foot thick foam deck?
Re: that “concrete” fence conversion : well, he isn’t using concrete, he is using cement. It f’ing matters because the cement is twice the cost of concrete at Home Depot here. And the gravel really gets in the way when surface texturing. Cement in 60 lb bags is approximately 1/2 cubic foot, so one bag used to make a 6ft tall cement fence gives a one inch thick fence for ~$7. His finished wall looks three inches thick, so $21 and 180lbs per ft, so a 100ft wall is $2100 and 18,000 lbs(!!) plus the cost of wire and the original chainlink fence. And his fence will be held upright in a hurricane by those skinny thinwall posts every 10 feet. But the work looks pretty darned good. How will you keep it from cracking and breaking up as your foam flexes in the swells?
Why do I care? I’m not going to build it…
You could add to forms, or tarps, on either side and pour the foam in the center and have the chain link fence be the rebar in the center.
Actually, I wanted to write that to another platform, that this platform is cheap and easy;
other platforms are cheap and sleezy.
But anyways; the mold and foam idea is good. This is much simpler that the one I thought about.
Simpler is better.
Actually, I think cheap and simple will be fine once we have breakwaters. There are many designs for ephemerisle that are just barrels with boards on top. Or just containers sealed shut.
But it’s not likely something you’ll want to build your home on. Maybe something good for a quick expansion for a big event. Sort of like pulling out folding chairs for a party.
Just an individual thought, or opinion of mine; about the ‘home’.
. It is just the sea and the darkness.
Do you think anyone can talk Spark into testing his woven tires as a breakwater? It’s time to do whatever wasn’t tried before, like maybe putting a layer of tires 20ft down tied to a layer on the surface, to interfere with the waves.
I bought the paperback ~1969. I recommend it.
Basically saying, if you want cheap, we’ve covered some of the cheapest…
Sadly, it had a short and unappreciated life. Three short years. See: https://gallery.mailchimp.com/75e591db8b22aa2c51b6c7278/files/161130_Makoko_Floating_School_FAQs_and_appendices.02.01.pdf
It was completed and open for business in March 2013, was formally handed over to Makoko/Iwaya waterfront community on 7 August 2015, slowly deteriorated due to lack of roofing, general upkeep plus vandalism, was severely damaged between March and June 2016, and finally collapsed June 7th 2016.
A version 2 was built in a way it could be dis/reassembled, but far as i can see they have no purpose for it, no reason to put it back up anywhere. You can bet your bottom dollar it won’t be put up in Lake Makoko again.
It looks to me like a well considered plan, except for the reliance on wood for everything in the frame, and tarp for roofing. I bet it was exceptionally sturdy when new.
That’s why I posted MFS II. Still in Venice, as far as I can tell, and the firm STILL hasn’t released the new stainless steel connector design, used with #2.